A bright sun peaked over an island across the sound and it promised to be a clear day, one where the blue in the sky will be surpassed only by the deeper blue reflecting from the water. A friend of mine had recently taken a job on a tiny Island, 24 miles off the coast of Maine. Matinicus and Monhegan are the only year-round islands powered by diesel generators. The parrot in the living room wished us good mornings and otherwise was mostly friendly, though Harold believed the parrot didnt respect him very much. school that is overseen by a part-time superintendent and a three-person school board. Or you get your answers off the record. A fragile, prized way of life, unchanged for generations, has never seemed more in peril. Not even one. This is not just a learning curve for the patient, by the way. All ages, all health conditions,. For those at the moment safe from the big problems wildfire and hurricane, racism and hunger, depression and fear, and forgive me for making light in a time of crisiswe might compare notes. Sunset on Matinicus (Photo courtesy Gary Peabody), An island haircut: Eva Murray gets her hair trimmed by her husband Paul Murray, the Phone Man. Theres a way of doing things, Philbrook told me, and it just seemed as though the time had come to get things clear once and for all. Matinicus Isle Plantation, ME Real Estate & Homes for Sale - Redfin Matinicus is a remote, largely forgotten island community of defiantly independent souls. Not really needing to take anyone else at the moment the pilot told us to climb in. Now there's an island for unwanted and banned books, too. Matinicus gravel airstrip with the Camden Hills in the background. A few families raised potatoes; almost everyone had a garden. She is the islands historian, the clerk-secretary of its church, and a member of its school board. But that was never the point. P.O. But the deeper causes had more to do with other things: pride, greed, progress, family, what it means to claim a place as home. He said he worried sometimes that with the way things were going, his son, Nick, could be the last Philbrook to make a living here: that if people kept leaving for the mainland and just coming back to haul lobster off the bottom (taking and taking, and never giving back), the island, like all those others, could die a lingering death. Join for as little as $2.99 per month and support local journalism on a community hub that serves everyone. Or maybe Vance Bunker cut them, or maybe both of them did, or neither; it can be foggy off Matinicus in the early mornings. Some traded up to 600-horsepower diesels that could make it to Rockland in an hour or less. Its their legacy; theyve been working it for generations, says Marty Malloy, the lobster buyer, who lives on the island with his wife and twin boys. The first of these was on a Tuesday and the next that following Thursday, which would permit a two day stay on the island. Since there are no stores, except for a "bakery" which operates out of a residential kitchen in the summer, many islanders have their own gardens. What It's Really Like To Live On A Tiny Island Off The Coast - HuffPost The island has a growing group of children approaching school age. Our two days at the inn could be best described as simply peaceful. Harold had bested me in bringing less, simply a large beach towel draped over his shoulders (Douglas Adams would be pleased) and some peanut butter crackers. Not the Sunbeam. No cars, few people, great hikes (most of the island is a forest preserve) wonderful sunrises and sunsets and the quiet that only comes from being miles out to sea. In 2005, for three days, he signed on as a third man in a lobster boat, and, he says, a gene flipped on in my head. He left his job; she left hers. My heart goes out to thembut they dont see it at all.. They voted him off the islandout of island waters. As the natives are fond of saying: You live here because you love it, or you dont live here at all. A line has been crossed that was never crossed before, Suzanne Rankin says. And it is also fitting that a religious institution of community service, long ago wiped from our urbanized societal consciousness, still remains an important aspect of lives out on these islands. Which we planned to do. The Matinicus Rock light station is the hub of the living quarters and serves as a kitchen, dining room, office, and sleeping quarters. You could row out in the harbor and catch as many cod as you wanted; there were cattle here then, and horses, geese, and pigs. You call the company which promised warranty service on your equipment but it turns out the technician is afraid to come to your house. Red squirrel in Seurasaari. Maine island library wants your banned books - Yahoo News It seems that most people out there already know where they are going. The station was known for its isolation and its punishing weather. There is an Automated Weather Observing Station (AWOS) at the airport. And on this little island, where a brooding sort of silence has settled over things, its hard to find anyone who doesnt fear for the future. Maybe the post office, where we wait our turn outdoors, and gossip from a distance with some guy idling in his truck. Walks about the island every day. FORE MORE DATA ON MAINES ISLAND AND COASTAL COMMUNITIES VISIT: Not anymore, anyway.. info@islandinstitute.org, 386 Main St. For we not only visited Matinicus Rock and Matinicus Island during our week afloat together, we also visited the other four principal offshore islands on the Maine coast: Seguin, Damariscove, Monhegan, and Metinic. Lobstering was a tougher business in those days: The boats were slower; you couldnt set your traps more than a few miles out from the island; and you had to haul them up by hand. Anyway, heres wishing us all peace in the New Yearand a month of Sundays, and the plumpest tomato, and maybe just a little scheduled hooliganism. This winter, only 20 people are living on Matinicus. Matinicus Island. Second Fig is perched at the end of a grassy road in a field dotted with apple trees overlooking the sea on the remote island of Matinicus. Islesboro, and our destination, Matinicus Island. Theres a war going on in coastal Maine, where renegade crustacean gangs are forcing people to grope for their guns, was how one national magazine painted the scene, ludicrously, late last year. It's only a 15-minute flight so we never got very high, resulting in amazing views. Matinicus Island - life off the coast of Maine - DITCH'S DISPATCH And then the fire, and the center of our community is gone, just like that. Life on an island: Silence, beauty and a long wait for the ferry But how about other trash? Matinicus Island can be reached by sea or air. It's rustic, it can be difficult to reach and it's the most seaward of all the islands in Maine. Together we drove up Maines coastal highway, Route 1, initially encountering the morning shift heading to the Bath Iron Works, but little in the way of summer crowds since this was still before Memorial Day. Granite shorelines mostly. People do more than one thing.) Theres a strong dedication in this classroom, I can tell you that, to continuing this way of life.. We should have taken heed of the number of lawn chairs out for rest in the gardens. Maybe not. Donna Rogers is 71; she lives with her husband, Charlie, a lobsterman, in a home overlooking the harbor. Backing up some. Expedited delivery doesnt exist. Maine has inspired artists for 200 years - National Geographic But now with this She tilted her head back, hard, almost violently, toward the open window behind us and the dock and harbor beyond. Once we loaded three cars, two pickups, a dump-truck (which barely fit), and four passengers on foot, we set sail for the 2.5-hour trip. There are probably not 35 today. Matinicus Island, the most remote island in Penobscot Bay is rarely visited by tourists, and is considered a working island, not a tourist island, but this beach camp, right on the ocean's edge, has for 41 years been available for individuals and families seeking a place off-the-beaten-track who understand that in trade for the occasional . In the summer of 2009, a violent incident between lobstermen on the remote Matinicus Island in Maine would change the close-knit community forever. These are very typical sea views on Matinicus. He is descended, he tells me, from a family of shipbuilders who first settled in Bath in the 1770s, migrated to the Penobscot Bay islands, and have been on Matinicus for just under 200 years. The wind gusted to 70 mph (115 kph) on Sunday near Matinicus Island . The people who are really necessary in civilization are the folks who deal with logistics and freight and utilities and emergencies and human care, not the men in three-piece suits. Three families have been fractured. They wont even talk to me, he said. In season there is a gift shop, a bakery and an island resident runs a taxi service. Probably also its future, whatever that may be. A mile and a half down, past all but the last of the houses, where the island starts to narrow and you begin to think you can smell the ocean again, you come to the cemetery. In Maine's remotest island community, changing the lightbulb has far Matinicus Rock - Visit Maine Its also the biggest reason why, whenever theres an event at the schooljust about any event at any time of day that involves the five or six kids there30 people are apt to show up. And then, at a little before 6:00 on the morning of July 20, 2009, one of the men, Chris Young, boarded Vance Bunkers boat, accused him of cutting his traps, and, Bunker would say later, threatened to kill him. Grants and Scholarships Portal Apply Here, Download Matinicus Community Profile (PDF), Steamboat Wharf, a publicly accessible ferry landing, Power station generating electricity for the island. We weaved through hundreds of colorful lobster pot buoys; the captain skillfully avoiding them remarkably. Its about building long-term memorylike the way farming used to be, when the kids still learned from their elders. A friend of mine had recently taken a job on a tiny Island, 24 miles off the coast of Maine. The harbor itself was unmistakably a working place. More than half the graves belong to the same eight or nine families, the islands anchor names, which Id come to know by this time: Ames, Young, Philbrookthe three surviving alpha families, as one islander calls themas well as Hall, Condon, Bunker, Tolman, Crie. We all of us out here would.. There is no dry cleaning. Her devotion to the place seems almost ingrown. Well, it was grounded Friday and Saturday due to heavy fog and again on Sunday because of very strong winds. If you need to flag this entry as abusive. As a child, she spent her summers on this island and now has returned here with her family. He responded by threatening a ramming; they put two shots across his bow. There was activity on the dock and cars lined up waiting to board as we pulled in and docked. Matinicus Rock. The Matinicus Island Ladies Literary League and Subversive Activities Committee, also known as the Red Dahlia Society, was . On Prom Night three summers ago, he was the one in white tie. In the summer there might be 200 people staying on the island; in February, as few as 35. He made a call to a lobsterman who also had the islands inventory of propane tanks. Many of them are included in the thin, typewritten, hand-stapled book she wrote a decade or so ago: Tales of Matinicus Island: History, Lore and Legend. They warned him, then cut his traps. [13] Matinicus Isle is located approximately 1 mile (1.6 km) north of Criehaven Isle. Part of HuffPost News. I say climbed in but this was really a drawn out process. Even the few who defend him, including parents who recall what he did for their children, are too fearful of their neighbors to say so publicly. She told me about how, when an octogenarian member of the Ames clan had died not long before, a local writer, Eva Murray, had come to the school to talk to the children about his life, so theyd understand something of the history of this person theyd known. I asked about the shooting: Had she discussed it with the children? Europeans first established a permanent settlement on the island in 1750, despite objections from the Penobscot. And it doesnt end with him. As the most remote island in Penobscot Bay, 22 miles southeast of Rockland, Matinicus Island is a wonderful place to take a deep breath and relax. The Bunkers and the Youngs feudingthat goes back. There are no groceries for sale, no restaurants, no hardware stores, and really even no inns. Deal with it. This was roughly contemporary. How could they possibly, with all their troubles? You can't go anywhere on the island without running into an apple tree; they are everywhere. Most Matinicus residents are self- employed, with fishing and construction being the most common industries. This Small Library Off the Coast of Maine Is Collecting Banned Books Shes a little like a rainbow herself: stout and graying but full of wonderful old stories that paint pictures and cast spells. Bunker fired his handgun and missed. They float at their moorings comfortably apart, not much more than a dozen of them, gentle neighbors under an early-evening sky. Thirteen years ago, on his honeymoon, he came to Matinicus for the first time; his new wife, Lisa, had spent her childhood summers here. So we went back to get more instructions. A long stone breakwater protected the moored lobster boats and colorful waterfront homes sat high atop stilts, as did the docks, to accommodate the considerable tides. I have been waking to this sight at this cottage off and on since about the age of two. Literally, physically sick.. When we woke up on Thursday, the day the ferry would return and we had planned to leave, Bills propane tank gave out while making breakfast. Your spouse, the kid next door, more or less any random citizen can cut your hair; you just park on a kitchen chair in the dooryard. Danger and illness aside, one might argue that wintertime island life is something like 2020 with a scenic view. This was not a story dating back to an earlier era, 100 or even just 50 years ago. New Hope Midcoasts Community of Hope Matching Challenge: NEW GOAL AND UPDATE! But if anyone wants to participate in a service, those are provided too. Then, in October of the same year, just two months after the prom, a young lobsterman, Chris Whitaker, went missing in the waters off Matinicus; only a boot, a lunch pail, and an oil can would ever be found. You say.) It seems almost of a different world. They invited us over on Sunday to watch the Patriots game, using an old-time antenna to receive the signal. They might have been a bit bigger. You dont just let someone come in and take that away from you.. On Matinicus, where the lines were drawing tighter, they told Vance Bunker that his son-in-law, a mainlander, was no longer welcome to set his traps. (Its cruise ships and casinos that drive the lobster market, Marty Malloy would say to me later, and were in a beer-and-salad time.). They sell raw milk, eggs, and occasionally cider. ), Out on the water, Nat said, Youre close to your work, youre wet, its noisy, its real, sort of like farming must have been at one time. Lisa, for her part, talked about the silenceYou listen carefully, you hear individual things: the wind, the bell buoys, the generator at nightand the spareness of day-to-day life: That whole Walmart mentality, theres none of that out here. All rights reserved. Matinicus Island Vacation Rentals & Homes - Matinicus Isle, ME - Airbnb The community has been exploring alternatives, including solar and battery storage. She was the new teacher in a one-room schoolhouse on Matinicus Island. Twelve or 13 of them, I guess, came in and told stories, showed photos, shared their memories, she said. And probably a few other professions I dont know about. Organized, continuous and full time missionary work has gone way out of style. Id heard by now the story of his familys early years: how his grandfather had been a rumrunner on the island during Prohibition, hiding the bottles in deepwater puddles; of his father, a lobsterman, and how hed met Vances mother, whod come there to work as a nurse; how hed started pulling traps as a teenager and never stopped; how it used to be that when you had an argument with a neighbor, you got over it real quick, cause you needed each other more than you needed to stay mad.. I cut a few of yours [traps], you cut a few of minethat was always going onuntil the time came when somebody lost their boat or their roof blew off in a storm, the islander says. She had just finished her second and final year as the islands teacher; her six students had ranged from kindergarten through sixth grade. Not everything is neat and tidy, some stuff is downright falling apart if it no longer is being used. There could have been a pound of meat in each tail alone ($10 each). Essentially, Main Street just turns into a gravel airstrip at the north end of the island. By the summer of 2009, the price of lobster was at a 12-year low. But it was never far away. Its what you had to do.. The little one-room K-8 schoolhouse, viewed by just about everyone as the islands truest pulse, has rarely had more than 10 or 12 students; in recent years the average has been more like half that. Now, with all thats happenedI dont know. The system here relies on clans. The shooting happened over lobster traps: who has a right to them, and where. Its all come easy to em. A century ago, 200 or more of them were fishermens communities; today, only 14 are inhabited year-round. Some managed to get along by operating small farms and raising their vegetables, cattle, sheep, poultry and pigs. Its the same with everyone here. 2023 Yankee publishing, Inc., An Employee-Owned company, all rights reserved. MATINICUS ISLAND, Maine (AP) There's an "Island of Misfit Toys" in the popular holiday classic. I dont even have to brush my hair every day (talk about a month of Sundays!). Upon returning to the school, we found a surprise left at the door by the brothers' uncle, who just happens to be a lobsterman -- imagine that. Thirty years ago, he moved to Matinicus, Maine's most . And we did. In any event, we took off into a beautiful day over the top of Penobscot Bay. The little photo I bought that day, of the rainbow over the harbor, hangs now over my desk at home. They preferred the path they had always used before. Not like today, with computers, where the process works in reverse , And you know what? A man drives too fast, we tell him to slow down. Matinicus Isle, Maine - Wikipedia As a school project, the three students had helped make "stone soup" to share with their visiting guest. It had all changed so fast. Today, theres not a lobsterman on the island under 50 whos ever had to scrape for a living. We all dined together and then headed to the beach, walking past the island graveyard, to explore for the rest of the day. MATINICUS, Maine The snow had begun falling overnight, and fell throughout the day, draping the towering pines and the lobster traps, stacked up on land for the winter, in blankets of white. Greed, thats whats behind all this, Vance Bunker would tell me months later. This post was published on the now-closed HuffPost Contributor platform. It needs them, its always needed them. Here you do it yourself, or you get a neighbor to help you. He came home and got a job as a sternmanan assistanton another islanders lobster boat, then other boats after that. When Charlie and I were coming up, it was a different time. Many of the better-off sorts are coming to understand what weve known all along, which is that nice clothes, stylish clothes, new clothes even clothes different from yesterdays clothes and makeup and a well-maintained professional haircut do not matter. It was good enough to have our gear get a ride from the first truck that went by. Matinicus Island, the largest land mass in the archipelago, spans approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) in length and 1-mile (1.6 km) in width for an area of about 720 acres (290 ha). Violence on Matinicus Island | New England's Most Isolated Island It could have been something their grandfathers were fighting about.. And speaking of the mail-plane -- it was my only way off the island. We manage just fine. These were piers made to serve a high tidal range where the sea bottoms out twice a day and where they must be kept up with minimum fuss. Maybe they could make it out tomorrow. A gentler time, I guess youd say. And we were told that the water taxi service is well run and a good option. Five hundred traps was now a manageable load. The man was a lobsterman but not terribly successful it seems. Two hundred years worth of clan-based survivalsix or seven generations of Youngs and Ameses and Philbrooks, and the few who have joined themfighting, marrying, burying, and working with one another, on a 700-acre island, has built up a very thick crust.
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